Introduction | Pruning | Wiring | Feeding | Repotting | Propagation | Special Techniques | Watering

Wiring

Wiring a tree is an ancient technique, dating back to the beginning of the century, when someone realized that some definitive changes could be made to the structure by means of a wire. This instrument allows bonsaists to shape the tree as they want, directing the growth of the young branches as well as modifying the direction of the trunk and the main branches. They aim at giving to the tree a harmonious disposition of its different parts.

The wire can be used also in the phase of poor configuration, called aragakè: this first rough work applies to the growing plants, to give them interesting characteristics. In big eastern cultivations this first configuration is put into effect already on the specimens in full earth: they intervene with formation pruning and wiring of the trunk and the main branches to obtain some movement. So the tree will enter the bonsai market with welcome characteristics. If the bonsaists buy a nursery tree or neglected tree, aragakè will be executed by the boinsaists themselves or by their masters. Obviously they cannot abruptly modify the direction of the trunk and the main branches; on the contrary they would risk losing the branches or the whole tree. They'd better be patient and start gradual bonsai training.

The best material for intervening on the shape is metallic wire. It can be made in aluminum or in copper and present sections of different diameters.
Aluminum, which is generally sold as coloured as the copper, is easy to apply: very ductile and malleable, it does not require a lot of strength to be bent, so it is more suitable for beginners: besides it is cheaper than copper. On the other hand it has a big defect: it is so soft that it cannot bear strong tensions. So you must use a bigger aluminum wire, where you could use a thin copper wire. This fact will make its application very evident on big branches (where it will be often necessary to apply double or triple wires), but even more evident on thin branches, where you will be forced to use some wire with the same dimension of the branches! Obviously it will penalize the aesthetic result.
Being more malleable, copper requires some experience for its correct application. However it allows creating the shapes with a less quantity of metal. This is the professional bonsaists' favorite material.

The wire, both in copper and in aluminum, can be found on the market with different diameters: 0.5 - 1 - 1.5 - 2 - 2.5 - 3 - 3.5 - 4 - 4.5 - 5.
Copper wire is used just to diam. 4, because the bigger sections are too hard and difficult to bend. Some rods will contrast big branches tensions.

When you start a wiring operation, you'd better have all useful wire-diameters at your disposal and all the tools to pull and cut the wire. You will start from the first low branch and you'll have to complete it before you pass to another one: you will start from the big branches and go on with the thinner ones, changing the diameter of the wire.

When you start a wiring operation, you'd better have all useful wire-diameters at your disposal and all the tools to pull and cut the wire. You will start from the first low branch and you'll have to complete it before you pass to another one: you will start from the big branches and go on with the thinner ones, changing the diameter of the wire.

First of all you must anchor the wire to the branch top to get the right tension: you will bend it twice or three times on a jin, another branch or the trunk. You can also wire two opposing branches. Anyway, once you have found a firm starting point, you will apply the wire on the branch with a spiral movement: one hand will keep the branch, while the other will advance with a fast rotating movement of the wrist, which will help the helicoidally disposition of the wire. It is important the distance between the coils is constant and they make a 45° angle with the branch axe.
During the operation you will measure out your strength: slack wire will not resist, whereas too tight wire will damage the bark. It will never cover leaves and needles or cross (if it is inevitable, pay attention it is at the back of the branch).

You should always take into consideration that wire is not good for the tree aspect, so it must be applied carefully and tactfully. In other words, the wire must be applied only if it is necessary: if the branch is already in the right position, it does not need any wiring. You will use wire just on secondary branches. So the tree will preserve a more natural look. Sometimes you just need to low a branch or displace it horizontally. You can use rods, fixing the wire to the branch you want to displace and to the pot edge (if in plastics or wood) or to another lower branch, to the trunk or to a jin. A gum-rod or raffia will be useful to protect the bark portion under stress. You can also anchor the wire to a wire spiral, applied directly to the branch. The thin wire acting as a rod must be twice the length long, as you will put it on the branch you want to move, connecting its extremities with the anchor point. With a hand you will direct the branch, with the other you will pull the extremities and twist them round in a spiral. So you will shorten the wire and pull the branch.
If you need to move a big branch, you will use more than one rod, gradually changing the position.

Great masters shape the branch during the application of the wire: it means they have a clear idea of the final aspect of the stage. Beginners will move the branches after they have wired them. You must start from main branches, giving them the right inclination, and then you will continue wiring the secondary and tertiary branches. The twigs that form the stage must look like little hands, with their open fingers towards the sky. This will follow the natural tropism of the foliage and help the absorption of U.V. rays.

As you go on placing the branches, you'd better stop and watch the tree: you will have a clearer vision of the design you are creating. The distance we work from give us just a partial vision, often from above, which does not correspond to the observer's.
When you have finished directing the branches, a whole vision of the tree itself will suggest you some corrections.

You will have to wire your tree every six months or every year, because of its growth. Obviously the most interested parts will be the youngest fast-growing ones. The everyday observation of the tree (which must be examined, not only watched at) will make you realize when you have to remove the wire. If you wait for too long, the wire will cut the branches: only the parts free from the wire will grow. The result will be the formation of some grooves in the bark, where the wire will hide. This must be avoided for many reasons. The tree will be penalized from the aesthetic point of view, as the branches will present spiral hollows. The hidden wire will be very difficult to remove, with strong risks for the branch during the cutting. Finally a too much-hollowed wire will interrupt the sap vessels, causing the loss of the branch or of the whole tree. So do not postpone the wire removal. You'd rather postpone its new application to a better moment (but do not let too much time pass by!).

Every time you apply the new wire, you must examine the tree and locate the parts to be wired. As a rule, as time passes, many branches get the right position and do not need any wire. You should pay more attention to details and stage trimming.